Physical conditioning is mandatory for rockclimbing, from strength training to aerobics. But muscle-riddled bodies or even marathon runners will have a tough time scaling a rock wall without knowing technique.
Technique requires strategy. Strategy includes not only negotiating rock, but also knowing your equipment and having a trusting relationship with a partner. Even advanced climbers need to be reminded that a short fall could mean serious injury or even death.
But a partner can help immeasurably in developing technique. While you’re on the wall, he/she is down below and might see a foothold you missed. Of course, this has limitations when the climb gets too high and the belayer can no longer see the climber.
Partners can discuss beforehand the kinds of techniques that need work and which routes are best to execute those techniques.
Both partners must sign off on all equipment for both indoor and outdoor climbs: ropes, harnesses, carabiners, belay devices, wedges, nuts, hexes, and cams.
Whether in a climbing gym or an outdoor locale, pre-bolted routes are best for practicing technique. Only more advanced climbers create new routes. However, some new routes are created for the purpose of working on specific techniques. Routes are graded on the basis of the kinds of techniques most likely required to navigate the route.
Indoor gyms are great places to work on climbing technique. It also allows two climbers to get to know each other in a more controlled environment before challenging Mother Nature.
Practice on routes you can handle. Once technique is developed on one grade level (5.6), you can move on to more difficult routes (5.9 or 5.11).
An easier route is good for developing balance and finding appropriate resting spots. Since foot and handholds are larger and easier to grip, this allows you more time to scan the wall and plan the next move.
Without leg support and proper balance, the fingers, hands and arms will tire and strain faster. When finger holds and/or handholds are necessary, they must be executed quickly, with the goal of getting the feet to a balanced, resting position.
On an easier route, a climber can practice one handed climbs with minimal risk of falling. It’s also a good way to build strength using alternating handholds.
In a one-handed hold, the other arm rests along side the body. The ultimate goal in this technique is to learn how to rest certain areas of the body while other parts are working.
With a greater foot holding, you can practice more difficult finger holds, usually found in more difficult routes.
Technique is often in proportion to body type. A climber with greater upper body strength can work more on footholds and balance. Hanging and pulling generate the most amount of strain. Techniques like laybacks, stemming, manteling, smearing and undercling are designed to compensate for hanging and pulling. They are also easier to practice on a less difficult route. However, easier routes might not offer the kinds of climbs and holds needed to practice these techniques.
A Layback is a move requiring pulling with the arms to the side and pushing with the feet in the opposite direction. A smear is using a large part of the climbing shoe on a hold to create the most friction. Manteling involves using the feet to push rather than the arms to pull. Stemming is two arms or feet pushing outward to generate holding pressure. An undercling is a very difficult technique where the fingers face upwards instead of downwards.
Sequencing follows naturally while developing individual techniques. Before tackling a route, step back and survey the climb. Mentally walk through the route, deciding what hand or foot will go where, what move (mantel, stem, backstep, flag, etc.) you will have to do and in what order. A flag is when a climber dangles a leg in a way that generates balance.
A shorter distance between footholds allows for an easier climb. Keep this in mind when you want to concentrate on hand and finger holds.
Change the tactics on consecutive runs, finding which techniques work best for each situation. And, while visualizing the route, mark the rest points.
Bouldering–without ropes–is a great way to improve speed and confidence. The climber is free to concentrate more on speed, agility and having fun.
Practicing downclimbing can prove critical in a climb where a climber miscalculates, and needs to retrace steps to try a different routing scheme.
The ultimate goal is to make as few moves as possible to reach the top of the climb. Yoga and climbing go very well together, where breathing and relaxation can make the difference in completing the climb.
Overhangs are usually the most difficult to negotiate, where strategy can mean the difference between tired arms and falling. Overhangs are for more advanced climbers and many other techniques are involved.
Developing technique requires pacing, dedication and routine practice.